SPCS Season 4 | Living Dyes

When we speak of bacteria, it is often in a situation where we are looking to kill it. Our germaphobe society lives in constant fear of these microorganisms. Yet the world of bacteria is far more diverse than mere disease-causing pathogens. Bacteria colonies living in the human body help us digest our food and protect against infection, in the wild, they create essential nutrients for plants. And most recently, researchers have discovered pigment-producing bacteria that is a highly sustainable alternative to toxic and wasteful dyeing processes.

Not only does bacterial colouring have significant environmental benefits, it can also be applied to a wide variety of fibres, from natural cottons and linens to synthetic polyesters. Even labs in fashion houses such as LVMH and Puma have started working with these non-human microorganisms to create new textiles.

Threads and fabric dyed with bacteria. Photo Credits: (Left) FabCafe Kyoto, (Right) Julia Moser

In March 2023, SPCS interviewed Julia Moser, a fashion designer working with Janithum Lividum and other bacteria to design new textiles and apparel. Her work with the bacteria explored the possibility of creating intentional patterns with bacterial dyes, foraging bacteria from the wild and testing their performance as fabric dyes, and even roping the bacteria in as a co-designer to contribute pattern shapes and knit textures through their growth pattern.

In this month-long workshop, we wish to emulate Julia Moser’s spirit of co-design and explore the many possibilities that will arise through the collaboration of biotechnology and craft.

What kind of patterns could the bacteria grow and make on origami-folded fabric? Would the bacteria dye work the same way as traditional dyes on a shibori-tied shirt? Can living bacteria be silk-screened and what effect would that create on fabric after a week or after a month, as they multiply? Will bacteria grow and colour differently on different fabrics? What new forms of clothing could be created with patterns determined by bacteria?

Work with bacteria to co-create new works with your current crafts and skills. Join us to experiment with co-designing with non-human organisms.

• Get a chance to experiment with emerging techniques in the fashion industry
• Co-create new textile designs with non-human organisms
• Learn how to culture pigment-producing bacteria on fabric
• Learn DIY bio practices
• Learn about bacteria and why they are creating pigment, about synthetic dyes etc and why bacterial dyes are special

＊Participants will be granted access to bio-lab facilities in FabCafe Kyoto and FabCafe Tokyo. (Facility equipment vary across locations)

• Apparel manufacturers and fashion houses who want to explore new technologies
• Product design and fashion students and researchers interested in sustainable initiatives in everyday products and apparel
• Artists and designers who want to experiment with new esoteric sustainable practices
• Textile dyers and textile designers who want to experiment with new dyes and dyeing methods

• Watch Julia Moser’s online interview before Day 1 (approx. 1 hour)
• Introduction to the SPCS online community (on Discord) 
• Draft a plan for your personal bacteria dyeing experiment
  • e.g. silk-screen the bacteria dye while it is still alive and observe how it moves afterwards, observe how the bacteria move around the folded fabric etc.

• Greetings and Introduction
• Ice-breaker　
  • Sharing of individual plans
• Lecture
  • Intro & Biology of Bacteria
    • Intro to Bacteria 
    • Why these bacteria are creating pigment
    • Intro to synthetic dyes 
    • Why are bacterial dyes special
• Hands-on
  • Making Growth Medium (all participants will also receive the recipe)
  • Multiplying & Growing Bacteria (sterilization techniques)
  • Inoculating Textile with Bacteria

＊For further work, participants will be allowed access to the bio facilities in Kyoto and Tokyo (facilities vary by location)

• Mid-term report on results and next steps 
• Individual feedback from the lecturer

＊There is a chance for participants to showcase their plans and progress in Maker-faire Tokyo

• Exhibition Set-up and preparation
• Exhibition will run till November 14th 2023 in FabCafe Kyoto
• Final Presentation

• If there are too many sign-ups, there may be a possibility that we choose participants through a raffle. We ask for your understanding on this matter.
• Photos of participants and the event may be uploaded to the FabCafe Kyoto/Loftwork.com website at a later date
• We reserve the right to change this program with no prior notice.