Textiles Summer School 2022
“Weaving the future” Exibition

WHAT is the TSS 2022 ?

The Textiles Summer School (TSS) is an ongoing collaborative project involving national and international designers, textile engineers, textile producers and materials scientists from Japan and overseas.

TSS 2022 is organised by a committee of volunteer members from different disciplines and will consist of two parts – the first an  online lecture series by leading international  textiles and materials practitioners, which was open to all. The second part was a hybrid online/physical workshop held in collaboration with designers, research centres and businesses involved in the textile industry in Japan and internationally.
(*This project is supported  by a grant from the Pola Art Foundation)

*This page contains details of the exhibition. Please click here for information on the online lecture.

(The workshop involved a hybrid online/offline exchange of ideas and prototyping by a multinational university team with textile businesses in Nishijin and Tango over a period of about three months. These images are part of the prototyping process, including research and idea sketches.)

THEME

TSS2022 explored new possibilities of textiles from a materials standpoint, with a focus on ‘Japanese Jacquard Weaving’ and its potential for the creation of  ‘e-textiles’ or experimental textile works.

Eight online lectures were held as an intensive, interactive learning programme. Japanese and international practitioners presented subjects related to the overall theme from a variety of perspectives embracing sustainability, the luxury market, materials research and speculative design and  e-textiles. Open to all on payment of a fee.

The Unique Characteristics of the Japanese Jacquard

Background

Until the introduction of the European Jacquard loom in the Meiji Period, Japanese looms and weaving practice were based on the narrow-width cloth required for the production of kimono and obi. They could not produce the broader fabric widths required for the international market. For the European Jacquard loom, fabric width, multiple repeats, speed and optimisation of weaving, along with reduction of costs were of key importance. In Japan, the ability to produce intricate weave patterns with minimal repeats over a 40cmsurface on a loom, which could physically fit into the limited spaces of a highly specialised cottage industry were the prime considerations.
Thus, the Japanese Jacquard developed as a context-specific hybrid, which operated on the same basic principles as the European Jacquard but which integrated Dobby and other mechanisms such as the botou and fumise. These allowed a wide vocabulary of specific weave techniques and yarn processes to be innovated whilst retaining traditional methods of pattern drafting. By bringing together the advantageous aspects of both systems, it allows a degree of customisation and scaling up or down depending on circumstances not possible in Western Jacquards. It is why it has become a focus of interest for experimentation among textile designers and artists in Japan today.

Some Japanese Jacquard Advantages for Experimentation

A variety of yarns can be used on the shuttle loom, including high-twist yarns, relatively thick yarns and specialist hybrid yarns like the tape yarns created by Tamiya Raden from finely sliced abalone on washi paper. Experimental yarns of this type, in which material commonly not used for weaving is blended or spun with a yarn component, open new avenues for textile designers.
The weft yarns are not automatically cut on both sides as in the Western Jacquard, but remain connected in a single line until the end of the shuttle tube. This factor and the ability to use thicker yarns than a Western Jacquard enable the use of conductive yarns, the creation of seamless looped fabric for whole garment production as well as multi-layered fabric – degrees of customisation and innovation vital to the development of new fabrics, particularly for the luxury market. This has made the Japanese Jacquard a focus of interest to those involved in the emerging areas of e-textiles and sustainable textiles.

Intelligent Textiles（e-textiles + Smart textiles）

Smart textiles can be defined as textiles that are able to sense and respond to changes in their environment. They may be divided into two classes: passive and active smart textiles Passive smart textiles, which are sensors and can only sense the environment; Active smart textiles, which can sense stimuli from the environment and also react to them; simultaneously with the sensor function, they also play an actuator role; Very smart textiles, which are able to adapt their behaviour to the circumstances.

Koncar, V. 2016. Smart Textiles and their Applications. Woodhead Publishing.

Intelligent textiles can be defined as those that have specific properties generated through the choice of yarn/material, spinning and weave process and the fabric’s subsequent treatment. Chrimen (silk crepe) is one such traditional example.

Collaborators

Tango Team

Kyoto Prefectural Institute for Northern Industry

As a research facility run by the Kyoto Prefectural Government, it is responsible for the support and development of the textile industry in Tango. It has weaving machines and equipment for weaving, dyeing and twisting yarns of all ages, as well as testing facilities and a textile archive. It can also process yarns for weaving and is equipped with an Haccho twisting machine. Haccho high-twist yarn is twisted using a method unique to Japan and is an essential material for Tango Chirimen.

• Type of fabric: Tango crepe, obi fabric, Western-style jacquard and many others.
• Weaving width: 40 cm – 130 cm
• Warp yarn type: raw silk
• Other: designs can be made into data

Tamiya Raden Ltd.

Has a history of collaboration with many luxury brands and owns a wide range of weaving machines.

• Type of weaving: raden-ori (a weaving technique devised to weave in raden without crushing the tape-like threads)
• Weaving width: 32 cm – 97 cm
• Type of warp yarn: silk
• Other: designs cannot be made into data

Usui Orimono Co., Ltd.

Also produces experimental fabrics using shrinkage and high-twist yarns, which are the principles of the chirimen crepe process, on a white polyester crape fabric. As it is a white fabric, printing on the surface is possible.

• Type of fabric: woven on a dobby loom, crepe fabric
• Weaving width: 110 cm
• Warp yarn type: polyester
• Other: no Jacquard looms

Nishijin Team

Kyoto Municipal Institute of Industrial Technology and Culture

An industrial support organization that provides comprehensive research, testing, training and other technical support to the textile industry. It has created a data format for operating Japanese-style Jacquards (CGS format) and continues to sell general purpose software. Suitable for collaboration with overseas research institutes, e.g. for data compatibility development.

• Textile types: gold brocade (vestments: textiles mainly related to Buddhism), obi fabrics, Western-style jacquards and many others
• Weaving width: any width
• Type of warp: silk yarns
• Other: designs can be converted into data for Jacquard, but samples cannot be woven

Katsura-Kigyou Ten

Japanese-style Jacquard looms can be used. Japanese-style loom structure, but can weave wide widths. Also, gold leaf is woven using a spatula. Taking advantage of hand weaving, weaving with special weft yarns that cannot be woven on an automatic loom is also possible.

• Type of fabric: gold brocade (vestments: textiles mainly associated with Buddhism)
• Type of loom: Japanese-style Jacquard handloom
• Weaving type: handloom only
• Weaving width: 70 cm
• Warp yarn type: silk yarn
• Other: designs can be made into data

Morisan Co., Ltd.

The company makes traditional gold brocade fabrics. Patterns can be woven on a twill or satin ground using golden threads or slit yarn for the weft. New patterns can be made based on existing patterning; colour matching with Pantone is done visually. Up to eight weft colours are possible and the warp is white or navy blue. Design guidelines can be provided for designers.

• Weaving width: 70 cm
• Type of loom: Japanese Jacquard loom
• Other: designs can be converted to data

Yamasaki Orimono Co.,Ltd.

Established in 1929. The company is mainly engaged in the production of mounting strips for hanging scrolls and other objects. Omoteso sakibi refers to textiles used for making scrolls and hanging scrolls, or for making folding screens and fusuma sliding doors by attaching them to wooden frames. It belongs to a type of Nishijin brocade fabric (kinran) with a fabric width of approximately 70 cm. The company also produces high value-added fabrics for couture. Main overseas customers are Taiwan and China.

• Type of fabric: gold brocade (surface decoration strips: mainly used for hanging scrolls, etc.)
• Weaving width: approx. 70 cm.

 Contact

If you have any questions about this event, please send an email to the following address. (Contact: Kinoshita)
info.mtrl@loftwork.com